Stefi (pronounced Shtefi like in Naples, never mind that she’s Bavarian) is the third in a string of glorious housemates, even if only for a month. The other day she asked for a ride to Villa Borghese, which I was happy to offer. Driving through Trastevere I began elucidating the logic behind driving in Rome. “You see, in August it’s like after sundown, stoplights are optional…”

“..and when you see a police car” she continued, as my hand jumped from the throttle to the brake, “it’s immediately September.”